i teach people how to grow medical grade marihuana.talk about favorite strains.and help out new players to the pot farm game.answers questions others might have with there gardens.any thing about farming pot or playing pot farm.information about what growing products i use and which ones r worth your money.
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Wednesday, December 21, 2011
pot farm guru: lighting
pot farm guru: lighting: Marijuana plants grow best in Latin America near the equator where the intense sun can give the plants enough energy to easily grow ten to f...
lighting
Marijuana plants grow best in Latin America near the equator where the intense sun can give the plants enough energy to easily grow ten to fifteen feet tall. As the seasons change and the plant progresses through its life cycle, changes in the color spectrum of the sun and the length of the day let the plant know when it is time to reproduce.
10215 400 Watts HPS Premium Digital Grow Light System
Flowers are the sexual organs of plants. When the season changes from Spring to Fall, the plants prepare for reproduction. Since we will be removing the males, when this occurs, the females' buds will continue to grow and their THC content will continue to increase. You will need to use two different types of light for growing marijuana. This page describes the amount and kinds of light you'll need.
During the stage of rapid vegetative growth, the plant will need a lot of blue-spectrum light turned on for most of the day. These lights are typically sold as daylight light bulbs. The color quality of lights is often measured on the package as color temperatue, expressed in Kelvin. The color temperature you want for this stage of growth will be higher, in the range of 6,500K. For great vegetative growth, you will need at least 2,000 lumens per square foot.
There are several different types of lights that work well in this color range. If your budget is not particularly tight, you can purchase some Metal-Halide or MH lights. These lights are ideal for the vegetative growth phase of the growing process. They can produce significant qantities of light. MH lights require ballasts in order to operate, and tend to be more expensive. They also produce more heat. For a small grow operation, MH lights might actually be overkill. I would recommend fluorescents.
There are 2 types of fluorescent lights that are usable for growing marijuana. There are grow-light fluorescent tubes. A popular brand of fluorescent grow-light tubes is Grow-Lux, but several other brands exist. These kinds of lights require fluorescent fixtures to be used, which are available at any hardware story for only $5-$10 and they are relatively easy to construct.
The other type of fluorescent lights that can be used are known as CFL's. CFL's or compact fluorescent lights screw into standard bulb sockets and have a higher output of light. They can also be purchased in multiple spectrum ranges. For the vegetative phase, you want to use Daylight bulbs with a color temperature of 6,500K. When lit, they appear a clean white, almost blue color. CFL's are the choice for lighting in small grow operations. They emit very little heat and can be used with reflectorized clamp sockets available at KMART for as little as $5.00.
For the flowering stage of growth, the plant will grow best with a high proportion of red-spectrum light (approximately 2,700K) turned on for only about half the day. The actual quantity of light should also be increased as well to at least 3,000 lumens per square foot. There are no fluorescent tubes available which offer good light in this specture. CFL's can reach this spectrum and are sold as soft white lights. They appear orangish-yellowish when lit.
A brighter light that operates great in this spectrum is High-pressure Sodium light, or HPS. HPS lights require a ballast system to operate. HPS lights emit a lot of heat, so they should be placed farther away from the plants than the fluorescents.
All this lighting stuff can be confusing, so the following list summarizes the pros and cons of the different lighting types.
Metal-Halide: High intensity light that produces a lot of blue-spectrum light. Requires a ballast to be operated. Great for the vegetative phase.
Fluorescent Grow-light Tube: Long tubes that produce blue-spectrum light. Requires fluorescent fixtures to be operated. Great for the vegetative phase.
Compact Fluorescent Light: Small spiral shaped tubes that produce either blue or red spectrum light. Fit standard light sockets. Great for vegetative phase (daylight/6,500K) or flowering phase (soft white/2,700K).
High Pressure Sodium: High intensity light that produces a lot of red-spectrum light. Requires a ballast. Great for the flowering phase.
In reality, the sun never fully converts from one spectrum to the other. It can actually be beneficial to use both blue and red spectrum lights at all times. Instead of switching light sources entirely, choose a ratio of about 3:1 for either phase. That is, for the vegetative phase, use three times as much blue spectrum light as red spectrum light and for the flowering phase use three times as much red spectrum lights.
You'll also need a timer for your lights. Timers are sold at any hardware store or Walmart for around $5. They can be programmed to have different on/off periods, which will simulate day/night periods. For the vegetative phase, you want to have longer day periods, usually 18 hours on, 6 hours off. For the flowering phase, shorter days signal the coming of fall, usually 12 hours on 12 hours off. Invest in a timer, because turning the lights on and off becomes a pain and forgetting can mean the difference between good and bad marijuana production.
Monday, December 19, 2011
pot farm guru: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures
pot farm guru: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures Introduction The Growing Environment The most overlooked environmental factor affecting plant...
Friday, December 16, 2011
pot farm guru: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures
pot farm guru: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures Introduction The Growing Environment The most overlooked environmental factor affecting plant...
pot farm guru: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures
pot farm guru: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures: Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures Introduction The Growing Environment The most overlooked environmental factor affecting plant...
Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures
Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures
Introduction
The Growing Environment
The most overlooked environmental factor affecting plant growth inside a growing environment or growing structure is airflow. Getting just the right degree of air movement across a leaf surface is vital to good production and yields and can mean the difference between high rates of photosynthesis occurring or none at all. Good air flow also assists temperature control, CO2 replenishment, reduces humidity and lowers the occurrence of certain diseases.
Boundary Layers and the Leaf Flutter Effect
A small amount of air movement - just enough to gently move or 'flutter' the leaf - has the effect of removing the stale, humid air from the boundary layer that lies just above and just below the leaf surface. This boundary layer of air supplies the leaf with CO2 and also holds much of the moisture transpired by the plant. If there isn’t any air movement, diffusion of water vapour out of the leaf and CO2 into the leaf begins to slow as the boundary layer air mixes too slowly into the rest of the environment. Air movement across the foliage creating a `flutter effect’, also assists photosynthesis and transpiration which plays a major role in calcium transportation, preventing blossom end rot and tipburn in certain plants.
Temperature Control
One of the most effective methods of cooling a growing environment is simply by having adequate ventilation and airflow drawn in from outside and vented out again. Obviously the amount to ventilation required to maintain the ideal temperature range will depend on such factors as the temperature of the incoming air, the heat load from lights in the growing area and the amount of air drawn into and flushed out on a regular basis. Optimal growing temperatures for warm season, high light crops differ depending on the level of CO2 provided in the growing environment. Where CO2 enrichment is used to maximum levels (in excess of 800 ppm), plants are able to maintain higher rates of photosynthesis under good light conditions where the temperature is run higher than normal. Temperatures in the range 80 F (27 C) to 92 F (32 C) with CO2 enrichment are recommended where light levels are high for warm season crops. Where CO2 enrichment is not being used, or is only being applied to prevent CO2 depletion by the plants and provide ambient levels (265 ppm), temperatures should be set lower to prevent 'plant stress' which can occur when conditions become too warm and stomata shut down to prevent excessive water loss. Temperatures for non enriched crops with good light levels are best kept in the range 75 F (24 C) to 85 F (29 C) for warm season crops. Night temperatures, when no CO2 enrichment should be carried out are best run at lower levels - this assists the plant to restore turgor pressure with an increased uptake of water at night. Temperatures in the range 65 F (18 C) to 75 F (24 C) are ideal for night or `non lighting’ periods.
Humidity and Disease Control
High humidity levels can become a major problem where plants with large leaf areas in a warm but restricted growing environment are continually transpiring and releasing water vapour into the air. Ideal humidity levels for flowering plants are in the range 30 - 50%, however the higher the humidity level, the greater the risk of certain plant diseases such as mildew and botrytis as well as bacterial infection where moisture forms on the leaf surfaces. Rapidly transpiring plants, with no air replacement can raise humidity levels within a very short time - conditions ideal for most disease to take hold. High humidity levels also slow the rate of plant transpiration (moisture loss from the leaves). Since transpiration is essential to not only cool the leaf surface but creates a suction effect resulting in water and mineral uptake and transportation within the plant, it is essential to keep the process going.
Fans in a grow room, not only vent out humid air but bring in drier air to the growing environment and this is essential for not only good plant growth but also disease prevention. When humidity levels are high, condensation at night when it is generally cooler can become a major problem. Condensation on plant surfaces provides the perfect environment for many fungal spores and bacterial diseases to infect the plants. It takes only a few hours of high moisture levels for most diseases to infect plant tissue and take hold, so reducing humidity and preventing condensation are one way of protecting plants from disease outbreaks.
Fan Types Required
Airflow patterns should be considered in the design of any growing environment. The placement of fans, vents and air mixers needs to be arefully planned to create good air movement in through the inlet vents, over and under the plants and out again. For odd problem areas where still, moist air is collecting, small mixer fans can be installed.
Intake and Exhaust or Vent Fans
There are two types of fans commonly used in growing areas - intake and exhaust or vent fans. Intake fans pull air into the growing area, exhaust fans push it out. Exhaust or extraction fans which are positioned to extract warm moist air from the crop are the most useful, however an intake fan which draws in sufficient fresh air with an adequate vent system to allow stale air to be vented out works well, provided the fan is large enough for the area to be vented. Whatever sort of fan is being used to vent out and draw in fresh air, inside the growing area, air needs to be mixed and circulated over the plant surfaces.
Osculating Wall Mounted and Pedestal Fans
Circulation or mixer fans, which may be wall mounted, pedestal, or osculating types carry out the essential function of mixing the cooler, drier fresh air being brought in, as well as any CO2 enrichment to create a uniform temperature and prevent cold drafts from stressing the plants. These fans also carry out the role of gently moving the stale, humid boundary layer of air from around the leaf surface and replacing it with fresh, CO2 enriched air which stimulates both photosynthesis and transpiration. Mixer fans can be wall mounted to save space, but need to be carefully positioned and angled to get the greatest mixing and air movement effect. Stand up fans and osculating fans also need to be positioned with air movement in mind - and if any area of stagnant air (perhaps areas where fungal disease seem common) is found, small fans can be positioned to deal with these problems. The main objective is to not only get air circulating and mixing in the lower levels of the crop to reduce humidity and disease problems, but also over the tops of the plants where the most light is falling and maximum rates of photosynthesis are occurring. Spot checks on CO2 levels, temperature and humidity around the growing area and in the crop will help discover where air flow is not occurring sufficiently.
Fan Controllers
Ideally, fans should be linked to a thermostat - triggering increased air flow and ventilation when temperatures start becoming to warm, and the CO2 enrichment system if one is used. CO2 injectors which are designed to enrich fresh new air with CO2 as the inlet fan comes on are one way of making sure high levels of CO2 are always present when the lights are on. Fans should also be triggered to vent out warm, humid air and high CO2 levels just after the lights switch off at night. High levels of CO2 are not required at night when the plants are respiring and need to use oxygen only from the air. Condensation, can be a problem at night when temperatures cool and humidity in the air result in water forming on plants and other surfaces. Getting good air replacement or air changes in the first couple of hours after lights go off is one way of preventing diseases such as mildew and botrytis whose spores need very high humidity or free water on the leaf surfaces to germinate and infect the plants. If drier, fresh air is continually brought in so humidity is lowered and condensation does not form, then fungal and bacterial pathogens can’t attack the plants.
Fans can also be linked to a thermostat and dehumidistat controller, which does the same as thermostat but adds on dehumidistat. Pre-set to desired humitity level. When grow room becomes to humit, the exhaust fan will turn on and suck the wet air out until preset levels are reached. By having control, our fan is not needed to be on full time without the expense of continual running. This type of system is ideal where the outside air temperature is cool and needs to be rapidly mixed and warmed when it enters the growing area. Where cool outside air temperatures exist, which might be many degrees below what is being maintained in the growing environment, continual air changes will result in sudden and continual drop in temperature resulting in 'thermal stress' on the plants.
Fan Calculations
Getting the size of the intake and exhaust fans right for the growing area is important for plant growth and development and disease prevention. The best set up is a system of two 'vents' - an intake vent set relatively low down at one end or corner of the growing area, with the exhaust or extractor fan set higher up at the opposite end of the room. The idea behind this is that cool, drier air sucked in from outside will flow up, through and over the crop (assisted by mixer fans in the room), and warmer, moist air which rises will be extracted by the fan at the other end.
Step 1:
The first step in working out the size of fan(s) required is to calculate the amount of air in the growing area. This is done by multiplying the length x the width of the room x the height of the room. This will give a value in cubic feet:
For example, a 12 foot by 12 foot room with a height of 8 foot:
12 x12 x 8 = 1152 cubic feet of air inside the growing area.
Ventilation fans are rated in the number of cubic feet of air they can move per minute.
Step 2:
Work out how fast one complete 'air change' needs to be carried out under warm conditions (i.e the maximum you will ever need the fan to operate).
If excess heat in a certain growing environment is a common problem, or there is a large volume of plants growing in a very restricted space you will need more air flow per hour than for a larger growing area which doesn’t suffer from too much heat build up with smaller plants.
Growers commonly underestimate just how much 'air exchange' is required to remove excess heat and humidity, bring in fresh CO2 and generally create fresh air movement over all of the plant surfaces. As a comparison to greenhouse crops growing in full sunlight - one air change per minute or 60 air changes an hour are often aimed for with large, mature crops growing under warm, humid conditions. However, in a grow room situation, one complete air change obtained in 4-5 minutes is acceptable. Obviously this needs to be more frequent where lighting is creating a lot of extra heat to be removed or when a CO2 generator is being used.
Step 3:
Divide the air volume of the growing area by the number of minutes required to get a full air change:
If the room is 1152 cubic feet of air divide by 4 minutes.
Fan capacity required is 288 cubic feet per minute (for just one extractor fan).
Add on at least 1 medium sized mixer fan (either wall or stand mounted) for each 200 cubic feet of air, make sure these are equally spaced in the growing area. More smaller fans will be beneficial to increase air flow up and under plants in any 'stale air pockets' which may be prone to fungal or bacterial disease attack.
While its relatively simple to work out the size of fan required for a certain size of growing area, other factors should be taken into account. If insect screens are installed over inlets, this reduces the rate at which air can be drawn in and both inlet size and fan size need to take this into account. If the inlets or outlets are not directly drawing in from or venting to the outside, but using long ducts, then a larger capacity fan or correct type of 'ducting fan' will be required, the size of which will depend largely on the distance air has to be pulled or pushed from outside.
Conclusion
Air movement with the correct sized fan, well placed mixer fans to displace stale boundary layer air around leaf surfaces and fan controllers to get maximum climate control are vital to the success of any indoor crop. Air movement is often over looked, but an essential part of maintaining optimal growth conditions by modifying temperature, humidity and CO2 levels at the leaf surface where the important plant process of photosynthesis and transpiration are occurring. Getting fan size and air movement calculations right means plants have the best conditions for growth, development and supreme yields.
pot farm guru: pest control
pot farm guru: pest control: Insecticide Use and Application In the world of bugs and the Indoor Growing the grower has many problems to over come. The question is what...
Thursday, December 15, 2011
pot farm guru: pest control
pot farm guru: pest control: Insecticide Use and Application In the world of bugs and the Indoor Growing the grower has many problems to over come. The question is what...
pest control
Insecticide Use and Application
In the world of bugs and the Indoor Growing the grower has many problems to over come.
The question is what is the best method of eradication?
With so many products available and different needs for each gardener to address, the retailer's may in some cases not be providing you with the best solution.
As a promoter of Doktor Doom, I will give you an over view of the different types of Insecticides and when and what to use for specific problems. Generally, there are very few Insecticides that I would personally use for Crops that I would ingest.
The most common for ingestible crops are:
- Pyrethrums
- Insecticidal Soaps
- And non-Insecticide Control
Beneficial Insects-Integrated Pest Management
Of the three, if in a position to create the ideal environment, including;cleanliness, ideal temperature and humidity, using the Beneficial Insects are the way to go. cccc this environment is very difficult to create, unless you maintain the 'perfect ideal conditions'. Being able to use Beneficial Insects is often inferior to applications of Insecticides and not nearly as cost effective.
Oil & Soap based Insecticides have their benefits, but when compared to pyrethrums (for plant application & permethrins, for over all insect control within a growing environment) They do not work as well.
Oil based Insecticides (Dormant Oil, Horticultural Oil) can cause stress and phyto-toxic damage to plants that they are applied to. I would like to mention Neem Oil in this category. Neem oil is a systemic growth inhibitor and not officially Registered as an Insecticide. Neem oil does have its benefits in that it will prevent some bugs from evolving. Neem oil is absorbed through the plant and into the plants vascular structure. When the plant has fully absorbed the active ingredient (about 10 days after application) and an insect eats the plant the neem oil will cause molting (prevents the host bug from laying eggs) which in turn will reduce the bugs in the environment, neem oil does not kill on contact without totally saturating the plant. This is detrimental to the plants as you slow the photo- synthesis process due to clogging the plants stomata.
As gardeners go in and out of the Indoor Growing environment they are continuously introducing new bugs to their growing area, the number one line of defense is to take the offense and apply Residual based Insecticides throughout the growing environment prior to introducing any plants to the growing area. After applying Residual based products it is now time to create a regular maintenance program for the plants themselves. Using pyrethrum based products will provide you with excellent results, that will prove to be time saving and cost efficient.
Top Ten Indoor Gardening Bug Prevention Tips
1. Start with a clean & sterile growing environment, this includes all equipment, pots, trays, liners, all growing medium and all other tools of the trade that will be used in this environment. After cleaning the area apply Doktor Doom Residual Insecticide Spray which provides weeks of bug killing Residual with just one application-saving you time & money.
2. Make certain that any Fresh Air Intakes & Filters are treated with a Residual based Insecticide inside and outside.
3. Always use the same clothes that have been treated with a Residual based Insecticide, similar products to Doktor Doom Residual Spray in the USA are approved by the EPA for application on the outside of your clothing to prevent mosquitoes from landing and biting you- for those of you concerned about the West Nile Virus. This also means that you should not allow anybody or your pets in this environment unless they have been treated prior to entry.
4. Be certain to start with BUG FREE PLANTS- apply a light misting of a pyrethrum based Insecticide prior to introducing the Plants to your sterile growing environment- Doktor Doom Botanic's Plant Spray has the highest concentration of Pyrethrums available in a plant spray.
5. When pruning and doing plant maintenance be certain to discard all green growth, leaves etc that you have removed or that have fallen from the plants immediately out of the growing area- this green growth is a prime breeding & feeding medium for bugs.
6. Regularly check your plants for bugs. Particularly spider-mites, be certain to remove any webbing and crush any insects that you see with your fingers. After this, apply Doktor Doom Botanic's Plant spray. A light mist is all that is required and pay special attention to the underside of the leaves.
7. Referring to number 6 if you did see bugs, it would benefit you now to apply Doktor Doom Fumigators on 3-4 day intervals before you apply the Botanic's Plant Spray for each application.
8. Always apply any Insecticides that you choose to use in the dark. Sunlight and artificial light dramatically reduces the effectiveness of all Insecticides as well and more importantly applications in direct light burn your plants.
9. The best time for an application of an Indoor environment is about 3 hours after the lights have been turned off. The reason being is that when the lights are ablaze, the heat in the Indoor Growing area is too hot for bugs. They like to move around and chew plants when the temperature is in the 70's. Consequently they are a lot more active when the room has cooled, so to save time & money and get the most out of any products that you choose for this application, apply the products well after the lights have been turned off.
10. When Fumigating your Indoor Growing environment be certain to put out all open flames particularly over head CO2 Generators & turn off all exhaust fans.
Doktor Doom Insecticides are designed for the Indoor & Outdoor Gardener. Our formulations are all pH balance and contain no artificial oils, perfumes or attars. Doktor Doom Botanic's Plant Spray bare to none, is the best on the market. It does not contain any PBO's. PBO's are not approved for Organic Gardening.
Doktor Doom Fumigators are the lazy man's guide to simple and effective bug control.lock the actuator in place and leave for a few hours. When you return you have successfully killed any insect that the mist has contacted, this provides you with peace of mind as you can concentrate your energies on more fruitful endeavors within your growing environment, as you may have already eradicated your bug problems.
Doktor Doom House & Garden and Doktor Doom Residual Sprays are the best aqueous based Residual Sprays available on the market. Letting you in on trade secrets, our residual activity lasts a lot longer than any of the competition, again designed to save you time and money.
Do not use any systemic or organophosphate Insecticides that are not approved for use on FOOD CROPS. This list includes Avid, Cygon, Malathion & Diazanon. Malathion & Diazanon are being banned and will no longer be available to consumers for home use in the near future. Neem oil has it's benefits but if you are making essential oils from the crops you grow it does leave a nasty flavor in the oils and again it is not a contact killer. It takes 10 days for it to work.
If you are using Doktor Doom Products we always recommend that you apply the products according to the Label Direction. For your own personal safety, it is highly recommend that you use a light dust mask while you are applying our products in an indoor environment.
Control
Mites are not insects and many insecticides will not adequately control them. Specially formulated products (miticides) are available for mite control.Make sure to check all insecticide or miticide labels before application as some plants are sensitive to these materials. Most will kill only adult stages and not eggs, therefore a second and possibly a third application may be necessary to control newly hatching mites. At room temperatures, applications should be 10-14 days apart.
Predatory control of two-spotted spider mite on cucumbers and tomatoes.
Introduce the predatory mite Phytoseiulus persimilis at the rate of 1 /plant at the first sign of spider mites or damage. Repeat at weekly until established in the crop.
pot farm guru: seeds
pot farm guru: seeds: Your marijuana seeds: Marijuana seeds need moisture, warmth and darkness for successful germination. We recommend you use clean water....
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
pot farm guru: seeds
pot farm guru: seeds: Your marijuana seeds: Marijuana seeds need moisture, warmth and darkness for successful germination. We recommend you use clean water....
seeds
Your marijuana seeds:
Marijuana seeds need moisture, warmth and darkness for successful germination. We recommend you use clean water. (The best to use is distilled water!). Most municipal water supplies have clean, pH neutral water that is very suitable for germination.
A small amount of chlorination is best for killing a lot of the parasites in the water. If the local water supply is not of good enough quality to drink then don't use it to germinate cannabis seeds. Bottled spring water, without additives or carbonation, is usually a good source of water for germination.
What to do
For best germination results, put the Marijuana seeds on clean wet paper towel, room temperature water. Cover the cannabis seeds with a layer of soaked paper towel. The Marijuana seeds should be left to soak in a dark warm place (65 - 80 degrees F or 18.5 C - 26.5 C). A kitchen cupboard is usually best. Check the cannabis seeds about every 12 hours. If the paper towels feel a little dry add a little water.
Usually within 48 hours the Marijuana seeds plump up and split their outer seed casings. DO NOT continue soaking after the white, initial roots are visible at the crack in the seed casings. The cannabis seeds are ready to plant at this point. Soaking the Marijuana seeds until the roots are exposed can result in stressful, early root damage.
Plant the cannabis seeds in a clean, pH balanced medium. The medium should be loose and light with very good drainage. i suggest a blend of Perlite, vermiculite and sphagnum moss. This can be purchased premixed and can be used alone or mixed with light, sterilized potting soil.
Marijuana seeds should be planted about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in containers at least 4 inches deep to allow the initial tap root
to grow straight down. The planter should have drainage holes to prevent drowning the seeding. The medium or soil should be thoroughly damp, but not soaked. High humidity is essential to good germination rates.
make sure the planted cannabis seeds covered with clear plastic. Place the planted Marijuana seeds under horticultural lights or a cold frame in a warm humid environment, (20 - 25 degrees C / 67 - 78 degrees F).
Remove plastic covers, once the cannabis sprouts have cleared the soil surface and the first true serrate leaves are forming. Keep medium and soil damp and fertilized with quarter to half strength vegetative fertilizer during this stage and watch'em grow.
Some varieties of Marijuana seeds will not germinate at room temperature but germinate fine at 90 degrees, about 20 degrees higher than room temperature.
Note! NEVER, NEVER LET THE SEEDS DRY OUT!!
Do not use bleach or mix bleach with the water. USING BLEACH WILL KILL YOUR SEEDS
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.: Hash extracted using cold water is known as water hash.When very pure has will bubble releasing resins when smoked.Thats where the name "Bub...
Saturday, December 3, 2011
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...: What flushing a plant means is to run a lot of water though it flushing away all the nutrients that have built up over the past three to fou...
Friday, December 2, 2011
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...: What flushing a plant means is to run a lot of water though it flushing away all the nutrients that have built up over the past three to fou...
Thursday, December 1, 2011
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...: What flushing a plant means is to run a lot of water though it flushing away all the nutrients that have built up over the past three to fou...
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...: What flushing a plant means is to run a lot of water though it flushing away all the nutrients that have built up over the past three to fou...
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...
pot farm guru: flushing a plant what it means and why you should ...: What flushing a plant means is to run a lot of water though it flushing away all the nutrients that have built up over the past three to fou...
flushing a plant what it means and why you should do it
What flushing a plant means is to run a lot of water though it flushing away all the nutrients that have built up over the past three to four months while growing the plant.So what you will want to do is for every gallon of soil your using run two gallons of water though it.I grow in five gallon SMART POTS so i run ten gallons of water though it two weeks before harvest.You will run the water through the plant all at one time.If you are running hydro all you need tot do is drain your resevroir clean it out and fill with good clean water and run that for last two weeks.
Why you want to do this is so that the plant can get rid of the nutrient built up inside of it.You can tell a plant has not been flushed because it will burn the back of your throat and the ash will be like black charcoal and also dose not burn in a joint worth a fuck!!!
remember to click on my adds pleAse i get paid whether you buy any thing or not i hope i helped somebody out there.happy growing111
Friday, November 25, 2011
pot farm guru: Cloning for sex
pot farm guru: Cloning for sex: Determine plant sex accurately 100% of the time by clonning for sex.To clone for sex take 2 cuttings [in case one dies]from each parent you ...
Cloning for sex
Determine plant sex accurately 100% of the time by clonning for sex.To clone for sex take 2 cuttings [in case one dies]from each parent you want to sex.use waterproof labels and an indelible marker to identify sets of clones and the parents from which they came.
Give rooting clones a 12 hour light/dark cycle.After a 12 hour day,set clones in a dark closet.the dark period must be total and uninterrupted to induce flowering.Clones usually show sex with in two weeks.Cut out all the males.Flower little females and keep their mothers growing under 18-24 hours of light.
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
pot farm guru: taking clones
pot farm guru: taking clones: when you want to take a clone you will want to choose a branch close to the bottom.the closer to the bottom the better.you will also want th...
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.: Hash extracted using cold water is known as water hash.When very pure has will bubble releasing resins when smoked.Thats where the name "Bub...
Monday, November 14, 2011
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.: Hash extracted using cold water is known as water hash.When very pure has will bubble releasing resins when smoked.Thats where the name "Bub...
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.
pot farm guru: How to make Bubble hash.: Hash extracted using cold water is known as water hash.When very pure has will bubble releasing resins when smoked.Thats where the name "Bub...
How to make Bubble hash.
Hash extracted using cold water is known as water hash.When very pure has will bubble releasing resins when smoked.Thats where the name "BubbleHash" comes from.the secret is simple physics:resin is oil based and medical marihuana foliage is water based.The heavier oil resin glands will not dissolve in water,they are heavier than water so they sink.water soluble material dissolves in liquid and foliage is lighter than water and so it floats.
so for step 1 you will need to put bubble bags into your bucket in the proper order.
Step 2:fill bucket with ice cold water 6 inches from the rim.
Step 3:add frozen cannabis trimmings.put up to 7 ounces 200 grams.
Step 4:add more ice on top of plant material
Step 5:add more water till 2 inches from rim of bucket.
Step 6:let mash set for 15 mins.
Step 7:turn on mixer for 15 mins on a low setting.
Step 8:let the mash set for ten mins.
step 9:mix mash again for 20 mins.let set for 10 mins. then start taking out bags and straining them one at a time let water drain back into bucket so the next bag will catch the smaller resin glands.when drained your hash will be at bottom of bag waiting for you to scrape up.put scraped up resin glands onto coffee filter and then fold over filter and press hard this will help extract water from hash.Then take and put hash onto a plate and stick into freezer for 20 mins this will draw moisture from inside of hash.Now it's time to reap your rewards for all your hard work!! pull out of freezer and it's ready to smoke.
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: Packaging and Storag...
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: Packaging and Storag...: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: Packaging and Storage. : pot farm guru: Packaging and Storage. : storing your medical marihuana in an air tigh...
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: Packaging and Storage.
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: Packaging and Storage.: pot farm guru: Packaging and Storage. : storing your medical marihuana in an air tight container will preserve potency aroma and taste.use a...
Sunday, November 13, 2011
pot farm guru: Packaging and Storage.
pot farm guru: Packaging and Storage.: storing your medical marihuana in an air tight container will preserve potency aroma and taste.use a vacuum sealer to get air out of glass j...
Packaging and Storage.
storing your medical marihuana in an air tight container will preserve potency aroma and taste.use a vacuum sealer to get air out of glass jars.inexpensive vacuum sealers are available in the canning section of the grocery store.when properly vacuum sealed buds will stay as fresh as the day you put them in storage.
vacuum seal the jar and put in cool dark place for a month or longer.The taste and potency will be out of this world.
Sunday, October 30, 2011
pot farm guru: D. W. C.
pot farm guru: D. W. C.: Growing in deep water culture is easy and productive.Seedlings and clones are held in net pots and filled with your choice of growing medium...
D. W. C.
Growing in deep water culture is easy and productive.Seedlings and clones are held in net pots and filled with your choice of growing medium.Most gardners like to use expanded clay pellets because they are easy to work with and are reusable.
the roots of the seedlings will hang down through the net pots and into the nutrient solution.Then a submersible pump then lifts nutrient solution to the top a discharge tube where it splashes into the lid.solution the falls onto root wetting them and then returns to the reservoir.roots gather nutrients and water and absorb them easily in the oxygen rich environment.Many people will also keep an air stone in bottom of bucket to help keep water and nutrient solution oxygenated. I hope this helped somebody out there.AND PLEASE CLICK ON THE ADDS.
Saturday, October 22, 2011
pot farm guru: taking clones
pot farm guru: taking clones: when you want to take a clone you will want to choose a branch close to the bottom.the closer to the bottom the better.you will also want th...
taking clones
when you want to take a clone you will want to choose a branch close to the bottom.the closer to the bottom the better.you will also want the branch to be about 3 inches i length.you also need two fan leaves at the end of the branch you have selected.you will need a clean razor and clean cutting board and a rooting hormone.I like to use CLONEX.i swear this stuff could put roots on a toothpick!!!
so you want to take the razor and cut the selected branch off lay it down on cutting board and cut off all the leaves and other side branch's off leaving only the top fan leaves.Then you will make a 45 degree cut on the bottom of the branch and then dip in CLONEX rooting hormone.You will want go about an inch deep then put in ROOT RIOT plug or cup with soil in it.Now you will take a pair of scissors and cut fan leaves in half.the only way the plant has to feed it self is through it's leaves so the less to care for the easier for the plant to root.
Now you will want to take your cutting and put under a t8 lamp.The t5 lamp is to intense at this stage of life.keep light about 4 inches from top of plant.A seed mat or heating pad helps out a lot if you have one.You need to spray twice a day for 5 days then stop.in a week to ten days you should have roots.
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
How tall should you grow plants before flowering.
now as in anything else there is more than one way to skin a cat.my suggestions are based on what works really well for me.with that being said lets talk about growing your sacred herb.
i like to grow my plants at least 18 inches in veg.Now the rule of thumb is the plant will double in size when put into flowering.most of your Sativa's or sativa dominant strains will break this rule.Indaca and Indaca dominant strains follow this well.there will always be what i like to call rouge strains that go crazy in the flower room.
lavender was beauty of a plant but grew so tall and bushy it drowned out the rest of the plants from the light.Thai weed is another but if you have the patience the room and time she is well worth it.Sour diesel is another one of those plants that seem to grow like crazy and is a nice producer.
a real nice hardy good producing plant with great flavor is the kings kush.properly named i might add.it is an absolute joy to grow!erkel purple is another plant defies explanation.I mean how the hell do light something on fire and taste like your sucking on a grape jolly rancher!!!I mean the blueberry taste like blueberries and the grape ape taste like grape and the snozberries taste like snozberries.It's like Willy Wonkas weed factory!!!
I can't wait for all of you to start harvesting all this great smoke and remember always share some of you harvest with somebody who is down on there luck.Not on a front but a GIFT people!!!The karma you get from it is worth any dollar amount.Trust me.as always i hope this was helpful.check out the ads and feed the fish!!!
i like to grow my plants at least 18 inches in veg.Now the rule of thumb is the plant will double in size when put into flowering.most of your Sativa's or sativa dominant strains will break this rule.Indaca and Indaca dominant strains follow this well.there will always be what i like to call rouge strains that go crazy in the flower room.
lavender was beauty of a plant but grew so tall and bushy it drowned out the rest of the plants from the light.Thai weed is another but if you have the patience the room and time she is well worth it.Sour diesel is another one of those plants that seem to grow like crazy and is a nice producer.
a real nice hardy good producing plant with great flavor is the kings kush.properly named i might add.it is an absolute joy to grow!erkel purple is another plant defies explanation.I mean how the hell do light something on fire and taste like your sucking on a grape jolly rancher!!!I mean the blueberry taste like blueberries and the grape ape taste like grape and the snozberries taste like snozberries.It's like Willy Wonkas weed factory!!!
I can't wait for all of you to start harvesting all this great smoke and remember always share some of you harvest with somebody who is down on there luck.Not on a front but a GIFT people!!!The karma you get from it is worth any dollar amount.Trust me.as always i hope this was helpful.check out the ads and feed the fish!!!
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...: depending on what size and kind of lights we are using.i am going to start with the vegetative lights first.i use a 2ft. by 4ft 8 tube t5 f...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...: depending on what size and kind of lights we are using.i am going to start with the vegetative lights first.i use a 2ft. by 4ft 8 tube t5 f...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...: depending on what size and kind of lights we are using.i am going to start with the vegetative lights first.i use a 2ft. by 4ft 8 tube t5 f...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...: depending on what size and kind of lights we are using.i am going to start with the vegetative lights first.i use a 2ft. by 4ft 8 tube t5 f...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...: depending on what size and kind of lights we are using.i am going to start with the vegetative lights first.i use a 2ft. by 4ft 8 tube t5 f...
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...
pot farm guru: hor far away your plants should be from your light...: depending on what size and kind of lights we are using.i am going to start with the vegetative lights first.i use a 2ft. by 4ft 8 tube t5 f...
hor far away your plants should be from your lights
depending on what size and kind of lights we are using.i am going to start with the vegetative lights first.i use a 2ft. by 4ft 8 tube t5 fixture.i like to keep my light about 4 inches above my plants.your nodes on the plant will be real close together and that means more branches on your plants.which equals more medicine for you!if you are using a 400 watt metal halide you should keep your light at least 6 inches away from the top of the plants the same can be said for 600 watt lights as well.now if you are using a 1000 watt metal halide you need to be 12 inches to 18 inches away from the top of your plants.
now with that being said the type of hood you use will also play a factor in how close you can be to the top of your plant.i suggest you do not use or buy a parabolic hood.while they disperse light really well they act like a giant umbrella that traps all the heat near your plants.gull wing hoods work well and the price is right if working on a budget.i like to use the RAPTOR hood.it is air cooled with 8 inch flanges.this means i can put my 1000 watt light about 8 inches above my plants!there are other lights out there and they have smaller flanges that work well to.well i hope this has been helpful to somebody out there.you can leave comments or ask questions.as always check out the ads.i endorse these products.
Monday, October 17, 2011
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS: So now your seedlings are in pots and ready for watering.i use 5 gallon SMART POTS to grow in so when i water or feed my plants i use 1 gall...
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS: So now your seedlings are in pots and ready for watering.i use 5 gallon SMART POTS to grow in so when i water or feed my plants i use 1 gall...
Sunday, October 16, 2011
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS: So now your seedlings are in pots and ready for watering.i use 5 gallon SMART POTS to grow in so when i water or feed my plants i use 1 gall...
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS: So now your seedlings are in pots and ready for watering.i use 5 gallon SMART POTS to grow in so when i water or feed my plants i use 1 gall...
Saturday, October 15, 2011
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS: So now your seedlings are in pots and ready for watering.i use 5 gallon SMART POTS to grow in so when i water or feed my plants i use 1 gall...
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS
pot farm guru: WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS: So now your seedlings are in pots and ready for watering.i use 5 gallon SMART POTS to grow in so when i water or feed my plants i use 1 gall...
Friday, October 14, 2011
WATERING AND FEEDING YOUR PLANTS
So now your seedlings are in pots and ready for watering.i use 5 gallon SMART POTS to grow in so when i water or feed my plants i use 1 gallon jugs per plant.So pour your water into said jug and then you will want to P.H. your water.Your P.H.needs to be between 5.8 and 6.6 i like to run mine at 6.3 the plant seem to like that best.So now that you p.h. your water you will either add P.H.down or P.H. up to reach desired number.Once reached go water your plants real good.Now right after you water your plants you need to grab bucket by the side and pick it up a little so you get a feel for how heavy it is.then every day go into grow room and pick up bucket and do not water until really light.I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH WAIT UNTIL BUCKET IS DRY BUT BEFORE PLANT STARTS TO WILTING!!!!
So now when your pots are dry your ready for nutrients or as i refer to as feeding your plants.Do not go by the directions on the back!The rule of thumb is what ever they tell you to use cut it in half.always remember less is more!besides the nutrient company wants to sell you as much of their product as they can.you still want a P.H. level of 5.8 to 6.6.I like to use the FOX FARM tri pack.It is all organic and is not a very harsh nutrient.
Your watering and feeding routine should go like this water,water,feed,water,water,feed.Now your on your way to growing medical grade marihuana!!
remember to check out the ads and feed the fish.
Sunday, October 2, 2011
pot farm guru: Seedlings
pot farm guru: Seedlings: now you should have seedlings.these little babies are the future,so oyu want to be careful with them.i suggest keeping them under a t8 light...
Saturday, October 1, 2011
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: Seedlings
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: Seedlings: pot farm guru: Seedlings : now you should have seedlings.these little babies are the future,so oyu want to be careful with them.i suggest ke...
pot farm guru: Seedlings
pot farm guru: Seedlings: now you should have seedlings.these little babies are the future,so oyu want to be careful with them.i suggest keeping them under a t8 light...
pot farm guru: Seedlings
pot farm guru: Seedlings: now you should have seedlings.these little babies are the future,so oyu want to be careful with them.i suggest keeping them under a t8 light...
Seedlings
now you should have seedlings.these little babies are the future,so oyu want to be careful with them.i suggest keeping them under a t8 light for a week or two or until your first set of fan leaves appear.now that you have your first set of fan leaves your ready for transplanting.now the way i do my transplant is i fill my pots up with dirt until the cup that i have will sit in the pot and the rim of the cup is even with rim of the pot.then i leave the cup in the pot and start filling in the pot pot with my HAPPY FROG potting soil until pot is full.then pat down soil lightly and then pull cup out.the HAPPY FROG growing medium should be damp inside the cup.if the HAPPY FROG growing medium is to wet it will be a little difficult to get out of the container.if your HAPPY FROG growing medium is to dry it will not come out as a solid plug it will crumble into dusty clump of soil and roots and that is not cool bro's!!!so now your sure that your HAPPY FROG growing medium is nice and damp make a slice on each side of cup.open up like clam shell pull out seedling and put into bucket where cup was.it should fit in there perfectly pat in lightly and give it a real good watering.now your on way next time i will blog about nutrients.HAVE A SMOKEY DAY!!!!!
Monday, September 26, 2011
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: SEEDS and how deep to plant them.
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: SEEDS and how deep to plant them.: pot farm guru: SEEDS and how deep to plant them. : when choosing seeds you need to consider a few things.are you growing outdoor or indoors....
Sunday, September 25, 2011
pot farm guru: SEEDS and how deep to plant them.
pot farm guru: SEEDS and how deep to plant them.: when choosing seeds you need to consider a few things.are you growing outdoor or indoors.what kind of sacred herbs do you like.do you like t...
SEEDS and how deep to plant them.
when choosing seeds you need to consider a few things.are you growing outdoor or indoors.what kind of sacred herbs do you like.do you like the sativa head buzz or do like the idica couch lock.or maybe your like me and you like both. while the sativa's grow tall with skinny buds and take a long time to flower.some of the pure thai plants can take up to 15 weeks to flower!!!now with that being said the sativa's also are nutrient sensitive.meaning they will burn up easy the indica variety's only take 8 weeks to flower and are shorrt and fat.most indoor growers choose the indica varieties.so once you have chosen what strain you want to grow you need to pick a nice healthy seed.you want a seed that is dark in color and if you squeeze it between you thumb and your index finger and it dose not crack it is a good seed.so now your ready to plant your seed.you only want to plant your seed 1 1/2 times the length of the seed. water really well and wait in 3 to 7 days you should see a a sprout!!!!!now you are on you way.monday we will talk about caring for your sprout and making it into a plant.dont forget to check out the products advertised here.wont cost you nothing.
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass : pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass : the glass pipe is the one of the best ways to consu...
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: balla...
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: balla...: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: ballasts : pot farm guru: pot farm guru: ballasts : pot farm guru: ballasts : hello again i jus...
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: ballasts
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: ballasts: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: ballasts : pot farm guru: ballasts : hello again i just wanted to drop a few lines about ballasts and which on...
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: ballasts
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: ballasts: pot farm guru: ballasts : hello again i just wanted to drop a few lines about ballasts and which ones i use.there are many different types o...
Monday, September 19, 2011
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass: pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass : pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass : the glass pipe is the one of the best ways to consu...
pot farm guru: ballasts
pot farm guru: ballasts: hello again i just wanted to drop a few lines about ballasts and which ones i use.there are many different types of ballasts to use and just...
ballasts
hello again i just wanted to drop a few lines about ballasts and which ones i use.there are many different types of ballasts to use and just as many prices to go along with it.my first rule of thumb is you get what you pay for!!while magnetic ballasts look best because of prices are pretty cheap but they weigh a ton,use's way more electricity and put off a LOT of heat.if you choose this option you will want to mount ballasts outside of your grow room.then there is digital ballasts and electronic ballasts.with these you usually have a switchable option on it so you can veg.grow till desired height and then you would take out the metal halide bulb and then put in high pressure sodium bulb.then you switch the ballasts over to the high pressure sodium setting and now your flowering!!! i like no i love the LUMATEK dimmable ballasts!!!thats right i said dimmable.the LUMATEK dimmable ballasts 1000 watts lights any bulb from 400 watts to 1000 watts plus you can switch it to super lumens and get 10% more lumens!!! thats a total of 1100 watts!!!!i love this LUMATEK ballasts its quiet and reliable.also the lumatek ballasts dose not have a fan built in to cool it.if you see a ballasts with the fan built in remember that the fan will suck in dirt and debris into the ballats making it run hotter and eventually quit.well happy shopping and happy growing.dont forget to check out the products advertised on my page.
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass
pot farm guru: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass: pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass : the glass pipe is the one of the best ways to consume your sacred herb.you get the full flavor of just ...
pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass
pot farm guru: the glass kicks ass: the glass pipe is the one of the best ways to consume your sacred herb.you get the full flavor of just your herb.if you smoke it in a joint...
the glass kicks ass
the glass pipe is the one of the best ways to consume your sacred herb.you get the full flavor of just your herb.if you smoke it in a joint the paper will mess with the flavor.makes the weed taste more harsh.besides really good medical marihuana don't seem to burn right in a joint..metal and wood pipes don't work at all!!!if you have either of these i suggest you throw them away.save up some money and get a glass pipe.you work really hard to get your medicine wheather you grow your own or have to buy your medicine.you deserve the best taste you can get.like i always say 'the glass kicks ass"happy smokin' my fellow pot heads. p.s.check out my ads on my blog.these are high quality products that i use and believe in.
Sunday, September 4, 2011
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size: so now lets talk about pots.when making a decision on what pots to use you need to consider a few factors.how much room do you have?how man...
Saturday, September 3, 2011
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size: so now lets talk about pots.when making a decision on what pots to use you need to consider a few factors.how much room do you have?how man...
Friday, September 2, 2011
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size: so now lets talk about pots.when making a decision on what pots to use you need to consider a few factors.how much room do you have?how man...
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size
pot farm guru: pot size and how it effects plant size: so now lets talk about pots.when making a decision on what pots to use you need to consider a few factors.how much room do you have?how man...
Thursday, September 1, 2011
pot size and how it effects plant size
so now lets talk about pots.when making a decision on what pots to use you need to consider a few factors.how much room do you have?how many plants are you allowed to have?how tall do you want them?i like the SMART POTS they are really user friendly.after your harvest all you have to do is empty out your medium and throw them into the washer.take them out let dry and your ready for the next round.the SMART POTS are made from fabric so oxygen can get to the roots and thats good for the plants,and whats good for the plants is GOOD for you!now since they are round and soft sided they do not stack into the room as nicely as square pots.i think the SMART POTS are the better choice.also if you use the smart pots and you want to put them outside all you have to do is dig a hole and put the whole pot into the ground and cover it up thats it!the SMART POTS allow the roots to grow right through the sides and when the plant has been harvested dig up your SMART POT and throw into washing machine and it's ready again.try doing that with a hard side pot.now with all that being said,your pot dictates plant size.tall pots will let your plant grow tall,short fat pots will make plant short and fat.your branches on your plant will not grow past the edge of your pot.thats general rule of thumb any way.now there will be some crazy ass strains out there that will go past the edge of your pots.just go's to show that rules are made to be broken!!well i hope that this was helpful to some one out there.i wish you good luck with your pot farming and may all your buds be big and sticky!!
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